And the horseradish aioli drizzled over the meat lacked punch. The meat itself was underseasoned, sliced too thick and overcooked, so that it comes across more like delicatessen roast beef than carpaccio. But another appetizer, a Black Angus carpaccio, was disappointing. It was an effective moment, and those oysters were plenty plump, juicy and buttery. Don't touch the shells, the waiter warns you, repeatedly. The oysters have been taken from their shells, sauteed in garlic and herbed butter, and put back in the shell before the whole shebang is given a jolt of very high heat. There is an appetizer called sizzling oyster that was actually brought to the table still sizzling. And it's not like Jack Binion's isn't trying.
